Castles and Castle Ruins

I'm a fan of historical buildings and castles in particular. My trip to Shimane and Tottori this past summer afforded me the chance to visit 5 really great Japanese castles. None of them were the unauthentic ferro concrete replicas that abound today as a result of war or fire. Here they are in order of interest.

The gate of Tottori Castle. It is the original structure.

No. 5 is Tottori Castle or more properly the ruins of Tottori Castle in Tottori City, Tottori Prefecture. Nothing remains of the castle but its stone foundations and the original wooden gate (which has been reinforced with iron bars). Tottori Castle's dates of construction and full history of use are unknown but it is most famous for the 200 day long 1581 siege that eventually forced the castle's starving Daimyo, Tsuneie Kikkawa, to surrender to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The reason the siege lasted so long is because Tottori Castle made great use of the landscape for defense. A river forms part of the moat, and the rest of the castle is built into the side of Kumatsu Mountain. The San no Maru (3rd [outer] circle) wall rises right out of the mountain-side of the river moat, and between there and the Ni no Maru (2nd [middle] circle) there are multiple walls that elevated the structures they once supported as high as 90 or so meters above the surrounding area. The actual Tenshukaku (the castle tower) was on the summit of Kumatsu Mountain, 263 meters above sea level. There are only 2 ways up to the Ni no Maru compound (and one of them appears to be a modern addition), and only 1 way (a long and steep climb) up to the Tenshukaku. Not much is left of the castle tower's foundation stones, but the view from the summit of Kumatsu Mountain affords one a 270º view of Tottori City, the Sea of Japan and the Tottori Sand Dunes. The best structures are between the moat and the Ni no Maru. Sakura and pine trees, and a small shrine in the compound make Tottori Castle a pleasant place to take a stroll and

Looking toward the Ni no Maru from the San no Maru.

probably a great place to view the sakura when they are in bloom. Tottori Castle gets demoted to last place in this article, however, because a 19th century, European-style mansion (Jinpukaku) where the Edo-era Ikeda Clan lived out its final days, and a junior high school are built within the moat on the grounds of the San no Maru. Both buildings detract somewhat from the overall experience. Tottori Castle Ruins are free and open 24/7. They are a ¥150 bus ride away from Tottori Station on the blue or red loop lines or on many of the other buses running through out the city. Check the signs or ask at the information center inside Tottori Station.

The foundations of Yonago Castle's Tenshukaku.

No. 4 is Yonago Castle in Yonago City at the far western edge of Tottori. Located atop a 90m hill at the base of the Sakai Peninsula, the castle has an unobstructed 360º view of the Nakaumi (Inland Sea), the Shimane Peninsula, the Sea of Japan, Yonago City and Mt. Daisen. The castle was a four story structure commissioned by Hiroie Kikkawa in 1591.
Shortly thereafter control of the castle was passed to Kazutada Nakamura who had the castle rebuilt as a 5 story structure. In 1632 the castle changed hands again, this time into the control of Naritoshi Arao, one of Ieyasu Tokugawa's high ranking samurai. Tragically,

Mt. Daisen and Yonago City
from the Tenshukaku Foundation.

the castle was deconstructed during the Meiji-era in the 1800s and its wood was used to stoke the fires of bath houses, so only the stone foundations remain. The castle compound is not expansive, but the remaining foundations are fairly tall. The foundation of the castle tower is visible from the road leading up to the castle and would be visible from much farther away if there were no buildings to block the way. Some benches and a gazebo on the highest part of the ruins (tucked away from view of the street), are nice places to sit down, have lunch, take in the view and watch the sun set over the Nakaumi. There are no buses that stop near the ruins of Yonago Castle, so your best option is to walk. It only takes about 10 minutes from the station and it's easy to find. Ask at the station's information center and they'll give you a map. No charge to go in.

Coming in at No. 3 is Hikone Castle near Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture. Hikone Castle is one of the 12

Hikone Castle Tower and Housho-Dai Tea
House from  the Genkyu-en Garden.

remaining original castles in Japan. The castle tower and all of the surrounding walls and turrets are original structures or structures that were refurbished in the Edo-era and have the status of, "National Treasure" and, "Important Cultural Assets."  The structure of Hikone Castle was originally located on the summit of Sawayama and was ruled by Mitsunari Ishida. Ishida forfeited the castle to the forces of Ieyasu Tokugawa after his defeat in the battle of Sekigahara. Naomasa Ii, the Tokugawa Allied General who prevailed at the battle of Sekigahara, was appointed the castle's new master. Ii ordered the castle be moved to it's present location in 1601. He died the following year but his son Naotsugu continued with the project, which, even with the full support of the Tokugawa Shogunate, took 20 years to complete. The expansive grounds of Hikone Castle include the pine tree lined Irohamatsu moat; the Genkyu-en Garden full of flowers, trees, ponds, walking paths, foot bridges and excellent views of Hikone Castle Tower - Genkyu-en is ranked as one of the best gardens in the nation; the Housho-dai Tea Room where one can experience a Japanese tea ceremony while taking in the beauty of the garden (¥500 for tea and a Japanese sweet); the Tenbin Yagura Turret, one of the final defensive structures before the castle tower, it is accessed by a wooden bridge crossing the rift between two rock walls and
is as near as Japan gets to the drawbridges associated with medieval European Castles (it could be demolished in an emergency); and of course Hikone Castle Tower. At only 3-stories in height, Hikone

Hikone Castle Tower

Castle Tower is not very large and it doesn't have any historical artifacts on display inside. The beautifully gabled construction and views of Lake Biwa and the surrounding mountains make the visit well worth it. The castle tower, the history museum and the Genkyu-en Garden all have admission fees. There is a universal pass that covers all 3, or a pass which covers your choice of 2. A long line at the history museum (and the historical nature of the whole compound) dissuaded me from visiting the museum so I visited the garden and the castle tower. The pass for 2 of the 3 admission fee sites is ¥600. Hikone Castle is a 5 minute walk from JR Hikone Station. A rapid local train from Kyoto will put you in Hikone in about 50 minutes at ¥1110 each way.

Minami and Naka Turrets.

Coming in at No. 2 and celebrating its 400th anniversary this year is Matsue Castle in Matsue City, Shimane Prefecture. Matsue is also one of Japan's 12 surviving original castles. Of those 12, Matsue Castle is the second largest, the third tallest and the sixth oldest. It was completed in 1611 by the Daimyo of the Izumo region, Yoshiharu Horio. Matsue Castle is a "practical" (war purposed) keep. Outwardly the castle appears to have 5 floors but the black walls of the lower levels conceal a sixth floor that was used to store food and weaponry should the castle come under siege. Matsue Castle was never challenged, and when it was ceded to the ruling Tokugawa Shogunate it was done by negotiated treaty. The original Higashi, Naka, Minami, and Otsukimi turrets and the original gate structure in the Ni no Maru surrounding the castle were dismantled and 1875 to prevent the castle being used as a base against the central government. They were restored in 2001 and look very much like the real thing. Matsue Castle itself was fully refurbished in the 1950s, but most of the structure (the floors, support pillars, window frames, etc...) remains original. Those things that were so old that they could not be reinstalled for fear that they would decay completely (among them the

Matsue Castle

"shachi" that graced the roof) are now on display at both the history museum and on the first floor of the castle. Matsue Castle also boasts an amazing collection of authentic samurai battle armor and helmets. If you like history you will enjoy that collection of artifacts greatly. The  360º view from the top floor of the castle is spectacular. On a clear day Mt. Daisen is visible to the east. The many walking paths on the grounds afford the visitor great views of the castle, the stone walls, the historic samurai residences that still stand on the castle's north side, and the moat. The moat itself is almost fully intact and the slightly Venetian feeling boat ride around the castle and through Matsue is not to be missed. Matsue Castle is easily accessed by the Lake Loop bus, ¥150 each way. Show your passport or your alien registration card and you're admission price is ¥280. The Castle Moat Sight Seeing Boat is ¥800.

Matsue Castle's orignal Shachi

The Minami Ni no Maru and Minami Senjo
from the foundation of the tenshukaku.

So how is it that a castle as cool as Matsue only makes No. 2? Here's No. 1, and here's why. Built in 1441 on the summit of a high mountain that towers nearly 1000ft over the surrounding terrain, the ruins of Takeda Castle cover an area a quarter of a mile in length and more than 300 feet in width. It was built in the path of aggression between the Yamana and Hideyoshi Daimyos, who were fighting for control of what is now northern Hyogo Prefecture, by a retainer of the Yamana Daimyo, Mitsukage Otagaki. The Hideyoshi family was able to conquer the castle in 1577. The castle's last lord was Hirohide Akamatsu, one of Ieyasu Tokugawa's soldiers who fought at the battle of Sekigahara in 1600. Within a year of being appointed the castle's lord, Akamatsu committed sepuku and Takeda Castle was abandoned. There is nothing left today but the stone foundations, however, the massive size of these structures, their location and area that they cover are unbelievable. It is incredible to think that this massive castle was built, and garrisoned on top of such a steep mountain using the primitive technology available in the 15th, 16th and 17th centuries. The town of Wadayama, whose jurisdiction the castle's maintenance falls into, has planted some sakura and pine trees on the castle's grounds, but they have kept any other plants from encroaching on, or growing near the edge of the castle preserving the 360º view over the whole area.

The tenshukaku foundation and Hon Maru complex from
the Minami Ni no Maru.

The castle is a great place to see fall foliage, sakura, or observe the "cloud sea" phenomena (best viewed in the early morning). The ruins of Takeda Castle are free, getting to them is not. The nearest city of any size is Toyooka on the San'in Main Line. The entrance to the castle is via a steep 1km long hiking course that starts next to Takeda Station on the Bantan Line, or by a taxi or car ride to the parking lot just below the summit. It is possible to see Takeda Castle Ruins as a day trip from Kyoto, but it is the only thing you will be able to do. It makes an ideal stop if you are en-route to Kinosaki Onsen or Tottori or Amanohashidate from Kyoto or a stop on the way back from those places. It definitely makes my list of, "things you must see in Japan." Happy travels.

The Hon Maru and tenshukaku foundation from the Kita San no Maru

The Minami Ni no Maru and Minami Senjo.