Climbing Mt. Daisen

Mt. Daisen from the Daisen Loop Bus

My great West Japan Adventure just came to a close and boy was it a good one. While traveling through Tottori and Shimane Prefectures I had the opportunity to climb Mt. Daisen, a volcano that is so perfectly symmetrical from some angles that it is known as, "the Fuji of the West," and at 1729m (that's 5671 feet to everyone who uses imperial), it's also the highest mountain in West Japan. Being from Denver, 5671 feet doesn't sound like much to me. Even though one views all 5671 feet of Daisen from sea level in the nearest city of Yonago, I still thought the climb would be easy. Don't make my mistake. I didn't fall victim to altitude sickness, but my initial pace was far too fast to maintain. Mt. Daisen is extremely steep and therefore punishing to one's entire body (particularly one's knees). That aside, the climb to the summit of Mt. Daisen is a "must do" experience if you are in Tottori. Gorgeous wild flowers, pristine forests and views all the way to the Oki Islands almost 60 miles out into the Sea of Japan on a clear day await you from anywhere the trees don't obstruct your view.
      Tottori Prefecture is the least populated Prefecture in all of Japan with fewer than 600,000 people but, there are plenty of cheap accommodations all over the place. In Yonago City, the closest city to Mt. Daisen, the Frontier Hotel just across the street from Yonago Station, offers non-smoking single rooms from ¥3700/night, or if you're a member of CouchSurfing.org you can pick up a couch for free with one of the many couchsurfers in Tottori Prefecture.

The main street of Daisenji

     Mt. Daisen itself is a short bus ride from Yonago Station. Go to the bus terminal located just to the west of the train station and buy a 1-day Open Ticket for the Daisen Loop, it'll cost you ¥1100 and is cheaper than the regular round trip fare. Get the bus from the well marked platform in front of the station (it leaves about once every 2 hours 20 minutes after the start of the hour starting from 7:20 am), and take it all the way until the final stop of Daisenji, about 30 minutes away. The bus drops you off at the Mt. Daisen Information Office where you can check on the climbing routes, conditions, collect pamphlets, and maps. English speaking staff are on hand and all of the brochures and maps are available in English. Once you've collected the information you need and want, head for the Mt. Daisen Trailhead. Walk up to the main road and follow it up the hill until it reaches a point where it flattens out. There are 2 omiyage stores on opposite corners to your right. Turn right down this street and walk until you cross the bridge over the small river. You will pass a Mont Bell store and enter a parking lot with a bathroom. If you need to go, this is the place, there is not another bathroom until you get to about 1400m up the mountain. Walk to the top of the parking lot and start climbing. Until you get close to the 1600m mark, the climb will be very steep and full of tall stairs. Pace yourself. Drink lots of water. Take as many breaks as you need, and pack a sweat towel.

This is the trail above the parking lot. It gets even steeper higher up.

     As you ascend higher onto the mountain, the forest changes from the tall mixed pine and deciduous trees at lower elevations, to shorter scrub oak and other small vegetation that is about head height, giving way at last to open mountain meadows with fields of blue, pink, red, purple and orange wildflowers! The great "wall" of Daisen and it's sub-peaks (Mt. Daisen suffered a Mt. St. Helens-esque eruption several thousand years ago that blew out its north east flank) appears multiple times through the trees, as do views of Yonago and the Sea of Japan affording many opportunities for photos.

The elevated boardwalk by the summit hut.

    Once you get to 1400m, the 6th Station (you encounter signs that have a number and the kanji 合目 every 100m of vertical elevation gain), you reach a large rest area that has bathrooms and a good view of the surrounding area. This is your last chance to use a bathroom before the summit. After the 1400m bathrooms, the plants get shorter and scrubbier until they are about head high. At 1600m you will reach the rim of the volcanic crater and the steepness of the climb is drastically reduced. The final 100 vertical meter climb to the summit is barely inclined compared to the rest of the ascent. The trail is transferred to an elevated wooden boardwalk making the last bit of going really easy. It is at this point also that you will encounter the gorgeous upland wildflowers Mt. Daisen has to offer. Refreshing breezes and excellent views reward the determined climber. After reaching the boardwalk it's just a few more minutes to the Mt. Misen Summit (1710m or 5609ft), the official high point of the climb (the true summit of Mt. Daisen is Kengamine, Japanese for the highest point on a mountain with multiple peaks). There is a small mountain hut with a sleeping loft, at no charge to anyone who wants to camp, but nothing in the way of cooking facilities or running water. There is also board walk amphitheater topped by a summit marker. This is where people congregate to celebrate their climb, take photos and eat lunch. Climbing past Mt. Misen to the true summit of Kengamine, while not illegal (the signs say it's dangerous please don't climb past this point), is strongly discouraged by the National Park Service owing to a short section of narrow loose rocks. If I hadn't consumed all my water I would have pushed onto the summit. Anyone wishing to do so is advised that help will be very slow and difficult to mobilize if you fall. Continue at your own risk.

The summit of Mt. Misen

    After taking all the pictures you need and having an adequate rest, descend Daisen the way you came. You can also descend via the Motodani trail (which meets the Mt. Daisen trail at about 1200m). The Motodani Trail will take you into the bottom of the volcanic crater and put you out at the Daisen Temple. It's a very pretty hike and very steep until you get near the bottom of the valley. The highlight is being surrounded by the entire wall of Mt. Daisen. Safe climbing!

Wildflowers of Daisen

View from just below the summit looking east-north-east across
the Motodani Valley toward a sub-peak of Daisen

Looking up at the Kengamine Peak from Motodani Valley